Chile Colorado is a classic of Mexican and Tex-Mex cooking, and this recipe produces its essential foundation: a rich, slowly simmered sauce built from toasted guajillo and ancho chiles. The result is deep red and beautifully balanced — smoky and fruity from the chiles, warmly earthy from the cumin and oregano, and gently rounded by a light roux — mellow rather than sharply hot. It works right away as the base for beef chile colorado stews, or as a filling and seasoning for enchiladas and tamales.

Directions

• Toast the chiles: Heat a heavy skillet or griddle over medium heat. Lay the opened, seeded chiles flat on the dry surface and toast for 10 to 15 seconds per side, until fragrant and slightly puffed. Don’t let them scorch or turn bitter.

• Soak the chiles: Transfer the toasted chiles to a bowl and cover them with 500 ml of hot, just-boiled chicken or beef stock. Let them soak for 15 to 20 minutes, until completely soft and pliable.

• Blend into a purée: Drain the chiles and discard the soaking liquid. Place the softened chiles, garlic cloves, cumin, Mexican oregano, and the remaining 250 ml of fresh stock in a high-powered blender. Blend on high for 2 to 3 minutes until completely smooth.

• Strain the purée: Pour the purée through a fine-mesh sieve set over a bowl. Press and scrape with the back of a ladle or spatula to force the liquid through, leaving behind the tough skins. Discard the solids.

• Thicken: Heat the lard or vegetable oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Stir in the flour and cook for 1 minute until lightly golden. Carefully pour in the strained chile purée — it may splatter.

• Simmer: Lower the heat and let the sauce simmer gently, uncovered, for 10 to 15 minutes, stirring often, until the raw flour taste is gone and the deep chile flavors have mellowed. Season with salt to taste. Use right away in beef chile colorado stews, enchiladas, or tamales.